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Thursday, June 6, 2019

D-Day and the War in Europe at the Normandy Landing Beaches, France



The American Cemetery above Omaha Beach
In recognition of the 75th anniversary of the D-Day landings today, I am posting this chapter from my upcoming history of the U.S. from places where history actually happened.
  
      Unlike the Pacific theater, the European battles in World War II have no National Park Service sites to commemorate the combat. We therefore turn to the American Battle Monuments Commission to recount the brutal conflict that liberated Europe.

Granted Japan had attacked the U.S., but President Roosevelt decided America’s main focus should be Nazi Germany. Even before Pearl Harbor, Roosevelt had allied with Prime Minister Churchill to support Great Britain in its hour of need. Lend/Lease supplies helped England withstand Hitler’s onslaught during the Battle of Britain in 1940-41, and U.S. destroyers attacked U-boats in an “Undeclared War” during the summer of 1941 to protect merchant ships transporting those supplies.

Allied forces launched Operation Torch against North Africa in November 1942. Troops fought their way west from Morocco and after some reverses, crushed Rommel’s Afrika Corps between the British forces coming out of Egypt.  By mid-May, Allied troops there had won the first military success of the European theater.

They then quickly targeted Sicily and invaded in July 1943. After capturing the island by mid-August, the Allies leapfrogged up the boot of Italy with landings at Salerno and Anzio in the west and at Taranto, Bari, and Foggia on the Adriatic Coast. That winter saw some of the most vicious fighting by U.S. forces in Europe in the Apennine Mountains running up the central spine of Italy.

In particular, Japanese-American soldiers of the 442nd Infantry Regiment (some volunteering from American internment camps) assaulted mountain tops held by Germans. The 14,000 soldiers in the 442nd earned 9,486 Purple Hearts, eight Presidential Unit Citations, and twenty-one Medals of Honor. They are the most decorated unit in U.S. military history.

            The landing of Allied troops on French soil is known by various names. In the U.S., it is D-Day. In France, Le Débarquement or Le Jour J. Some Germans call it the Invasion, except when they say that to some Frenchmen like actor Pierre Trabaud, who corrected them by saying “Oh, you mean the Liberation.” D-Day began the last chapter of the Nazi regime and the reestablishment of human rights in many countries.

Whatever name it goes by, this was the largest amphibious military movement of troops and supplies in world history. On the first day alone, 155,000 troops hit the beaches, along with 20,000 jeeps, trucks, artillery, tanks, and assorted materiel. Some 5,000 ships moved these men and materiel across the channel. More soldiers and supplies landed each day afterwards.

Preparations for D-Day began in earnest a year before. Military planners took a page out of Germany’s blitzkrieg tactics and trained airborne light infantry to jump behind enemy lines, developed a highly mechanized ground force, and pursued dominating air power. To choose a coastal landing site, to plan for all the logistics needed (including manufacturing all the arms and armaments), to gather all the ships for the channel crossing, and to train the millions of soldiers, airmen, and sailors for their missions was an enormous undertaking.

            Germans knew the attack was coming. They used 300,000 workers to build “The Atlantic Wall” on the French coast across from England. Some 15,000 concrete reinforced structures housing everything from 155 mm cannons to small machine guns nests guarded the coast. Take for example the Longues-sur-Mer Battery. Here four large casements held 155 mm guns at the confluence of the future landing zones of the American and British forces. These batteries had a range of fourteen miles, posing a serious threat to any Allied ships bringing in troops. The casements had six foot thick walls, and each used 600 square yards of concrete and over 8,000 pounds of steel reinforcement.

German fortifications at Longues-sur-Mer
On the cliff’s edge 300 yards in front of the guns, an observation post hid. Protected by barbed wire and mines, the whole complex held barracks, ammunition storage bunkers, and mortar and machine gun pits. To neutralize such formidable fortifications, from May 28 to June 3 Allied bombers dropped 1,500 bombs on the ten biggest batteries along the coast. Some explosions created craters twenty feet deep. As I approached the Longues-sur-Mer bunkers photographing them, it reminded me of walking around the ruins at Chaco Canyon, phantom relics of a past civilization.

During the night of June 5, another 1,200 RAF heavy bombers targeted Longues-sur-Mer and the other nine batteries. At day break, 1,400 U.S light and medium bombers took over to pummel the sites. Despite the 124 planes that hit Longues-sur-Mer with 600 tons of explosives, its four guns remained operational. Then German batteries and Allied warships blasted each other. By late morning, three of the guns had been knocked out but the fourth continued harassing the fleet. On June 7, the German gunners and their crews surrendered to British forces which had landed on nearby Gold Beach.

            On June 5, paratroopers loaded onto planes and headed to the continent. In all, an armada of 2,350 aircraft and 850 gliders carried troops across the channel, spread out over 300 miles in the sky. For Americans, the first combat action started around midnight on June 6 when over 13,000 paratroopers of the 82nd and 101st Airborne Divisions landed behind Utah Beach. Hostile anti-aircraft fire and clouds had scattered the planes, and so drops often went awry, some men landing fifteen miles from their targets. Nonetheless, groups of paratroopers gathered and liberated Sainte-Mère-Église, the first French city freed by Americans. Stephen Ambrose documented their exploits in Band of Brothers, his history of Easy Company of the 101st Airborne.

Counterattacks by German troops challenged Allied troops although Nazi high command was not convinced that this was the real attack. Hitler and his generals believed that would occur at Calais, a shorter crossing from England. German officers on the beaches had no doubt though. Col. Von der Heydte, the senior German officer at Utah Beach recalled: “All along the beach…were these small boats, hundreds of them, each disgorging thirty or forty armed men. Behind them were the warships, blasting away with their huge guns, more warships in one fleet than anyone had ever seen before.”
Remnants of a bunker overlooking Utah beach.
At 6:30 a.m., soldiers started hitting Utah Beach. The bluffs behind the beachhead were low, but German guns, both in bunkers and inland, targeted troops. When paratroopers secured the roads over marshes behind Utah, soldiers quickly spread into the French countryside.

The landings at Omaha Beach were more difficult and deadlier than those at Utah. Men scrambled onto a five mile stretch of shore with 200 to 300 foot hills towering over them. Chaos and carnage swept across the sand as German pill boxes poured machine gun fire, mortar rounds, and heavier ordinance onto the landing zone. Some men died as they exited their landing craft and floated in the surf as successive waves of soldiers rushed past.

One of the most difficult objectives was the massive fortifications at Pointe-du-Hoc between Omaha and Utah. At 5:30 a.m. on June 6, naval bombardment lashed the point of land, including guns firing from the battleship U.S.S. Texas. Over 200 men from 2nd Ranger Battalion hit the narrow beach around 7 a.m. and started to scale the 100 foot cliffs with ladders, ropes, even using their bayonets to ascend. Once on top of the cliff, fierce hand-to-hand combat, “more deadly than the climb itself, started in a lunar, crater-strewn landscape.”
Seventy-five years later, the cratered landscape of Pointe-du-Hoc still testifies to the massive bombing attack prior to June 6.
Capturing the bunkers, the Rangers saw logs painted like 155 mm cannons. On April 15, after an intensive bombing raid that destroyed one of these massive guns, the Germans had removed the others to save them. Rangers combed the region and found the surviving four cannons, which they disabled with thermite grenades. Over the next two days, Rangers threw back German counterattacks. Of the 225 Rangers who assaulted Pointe-du-Hoc, only ninety could still fight when they were relieved at D-Day +2 by troops from Omaha Beach. The rest had been killed or wounded.

Naval bombardment played a key role in D-Day. From battleships like the U.S.S. Texas to the landing crafts, all used whatever armaments they had to pummel the German defenses. On my road trip in the states, I visited the battleship Texas, now a museum outside of Houston. My grandfather, Arthur Hoffman, served on her during World War I, and because I donated a copy of his diary to the ship, I got a private tour. I even stepped into a gun turret of one of her 14” guns. These large guns fired 1,400 pound projectiles as far away as thirteen miles. With my back pressed against the wall of the firing chamber, I realized I had only inches between me and the gun as it recoiled after a shot. An inattentive position on the gunner’s part would cripple and even kill him.

German gun fortification protecting the route off of Omaha Beach.
           At Omaha Beach, I wandered at low tide at Saint-Laurent-sur Mer. Two bunkers framed the beach so that a deadly crossfire caught the G.I.s. Eventually, a group of soldiers climbed the steep hills to the west, came down behind one of the pillboxes, and captured it. This then became the first road off Omaha and hundreds of troops scrambled up the small valley away from the killing fields. On top of the bluff, engineers built the first airstrip on D-Day +1, which evacuated many wounded to England.

            On top of the bluff above Omaha, about a mile from Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer, is the Normandy American Cemetery. I walked the aisles of gravestones and read the names, units, states, and dates of death of the interred. The 9,385 burials pay silent tribute to the sacrifices that these men and their families made. The day I visited, during the taps ceremony, the lowered American flag was handed to Mr. Weber, who had landed in North Africa, Sicily, Italy, and then on June 6, 1944, at Omaha. Several hundred people gathered around and thanked him. A gentle rain mingled with my own tears at the ceremony.
Mr. Weber, a D-Day veteran, receiving the flag during the Taps ceremony in October 2018.
Once beaches were secured, a massive supply effort landed more soldiers and supplies. Just at Utah Beach, “between D-day and the end of the month of October 1944, 836,000 men, 220,000 vehicles and 725,000 tonnes of supplies were landed on the beaches.” At Arromanches, the British constructed an artificial harbor. Engineers sank old merchant ships as a breakwater, supplemented by 115 “Phoenix” caissons (concrete structures made in England and towed over). Some were 200 feet long and as high as a five story building. Once in place, this breakwater provided a five mile long line of protection for the harbor. Jetties on stilts, also towed over from England and dropped behind the breakwater, served as wharves for ships. Floating causeways connected the floating jetties to land, sometimes a half mile away. Until Cherbourg was liberated at the end of June and that port restored as an operational harbor, supplies to troopers in Normandy came off of the initial landing beaches. In particular, at Arromanches, seven ships docked simultaneously, unloading up to 18,000 tonnes a day. 
The sunken ships and Phoenix caissons which created the artificial harbor at Arromanches. 

Oil drove the machines of war, and so at Port-en-Bessin in between the American and British beaches, the Allies created a fuel port. British commandos came overland from Gold Beach and captured this small harbor. Once in Allied hands, the British constructed a seventy mile undersea pipeline called “Operation PLUTO” (Pipe Line Under The Ocean). This delivered fuel to the highly mechanized Allied armies.

            It caught me by surprise that the landing sites were not a continuous beachhead. They occurred along a seventy mile stretch of the Normandy coast with some large gaps in between the landing zones. From Utah Beach and Omaha Beach, a twenty mile break occurs which avoided steep cliffs. As I drove from one beach to another, I realized that this was the largest and densest  historical landscape I have ever encountered. Almost everywhere I went, a cemetery, museum, roadside marker, or stele marked the events of the D-Day campaign.

            These are sacred places but today at the Landing Beaches, villages thrive, farmers plant crops right up to the ruins of the German bunkers, vacation homes crowd the shores. Scattered among all of these normal human activities, tourists tramp over fields in a new invasion as U.S. and British flags fly alongside French ones.

            On the American beaches of Utah and Omaha, 57,500 landed on D-Day with 8,100 killed, wounded, or missing. On the British and Canadian beaches, 75,315 landed on June 6 with 3,120 casualties. Of the almost 22,000 Allied paratroopers that jumped that day, 3,000 were killed, wounded, or missing. In the campaign to liberate Normandy, over 209,000 Allies were killed or wounded while the Germans suffered perhaps twice as many causalities. Estimates of civilian deaths in Normandy range from 15,000 to 20,000, mainly from Allied bombings, especially in Caen.

            The Allied armies faced stiff resistance moving beyond the beaches, but on August 25, Free French forces liberated Paris. By then a second front had opened with the invasion of southern France on August 15. The soldiers sped up the Rhone River Valley, putting more pressure on Germany. After a brutal fall and winter of fighting in France, Belgium, and Germany, VE Day finally came on May 8. Focus then turned to the Pacific.

            The surviving veterans returned to the U.S., mostly jubilant. While many, like my father, had PTSD, they grabbed life. They made America into a robust economy and world power, similar to the contributions of the veterans after the Civil War. In Ambrose’s book on the 101st Airborne, he writes of their postwar experiences: “They were remarkably successful, primarily because of their own determination, ambition, and hard work, partly thanks to what they taken from their Army experience [where] they had learned self-confidence, self-discipline, and obedience, that they could endure more than they had ever thought possible, that they could work with other people as part of the team.” What Ambrose wrote about the 101st applied to many other returning veterans from World War II.

            Despite Ambrose’s conclusion about the legacy of the war on the U.S., the renowned journalist Ernie Pyle offered a more sober view in a draft found in his pockets after he was killed by a sniper on an island near Okinawa: “There are so many of the living who have had burned into their brains forever the unnatural sight of cold dead men scattered over the hillsides and in the ditches. . . . Dead men in such familiar promiscuity that they become monotonous. Dead men in such monstrous infinity that you come almost to hate them. Those are the things that you at home need not even try to understand. To you at home they are columns of figures, or he is a near one who went away and just didn’t come back. You didn’t see him lying so grotesque and pasty beside the gravel road in France. We saw him, saw him by the multiple thousands. That’s the difference.”


The American Battle Monuments Commission operates twenty-six cemeteries and twenty-nine memorials in sixteen countries around the world. Just for World War II, at cemeteries in France, Italy, Belgium, Luxemburg, the Netherlands, and England, there are 68,137 graves of the U.S. dead. Additionally, in Tunisia, 2,841 U.S. soldiers are buried, and in the Philippines, another 17,202 graves mark the final resting place of the U.S. troops who died fighting in New Guinea and the Philippines. For the U.S., over 418,000 (mostly military men) died during World War II.

The French government transferred Pointe-du-Hoc to the American Battle Monuments Commission on January 11, 1979 for “Perpetual care and Maintenance.” The Normandy American Cemetery holds 9,385 burials and has a wall that lists the 1,557 men missing in action. It is the site of the first American cemetery for World War II in Europe, established on June 8, 1944. Around 1,000,000 people visit it each year.

A map showing the Allied landings at the American Cemetery in Normandy.












Thursday, December 6, 2018

Mile 47 
La Fayette--  Nous Voici! The United States in World War I, France and Missouri

              On a road leading out of the city of Versailles, two distinguished generals face each other. On one side of the road, on top of a massive thirty foot high column, a statue of General Gilbert Motier, Marquis de La Fayette rides his horse. Engraved at the statue’s base are the names of the American Revolutionary battles that he fought in: Richmond, James River, Newport, Monmouth, Brandywine, and Yorktown. At the bottom of the column, a quote from him reads: “A l’instant ou j’ai appris que l’Amerique luttait pour son independence mon Coeur s’est enrolé.” (The moment that I learned that the Americans were fighting for their independence, my heart was enrolled). As noted in previous mileposts, without the aid and troops from France, the American Revolution would probably have failed.
              The statue which mirrors La Fayette honors General J.J. Pershing, the American commander of the U.S. troops in World War I. His noted battles are Cantingy, Villers-Cotterets, L’Argonne, Le Meuse, Canal de San Quentin, and St. Mihel. At the base of his column, it simply reads “La Fayette—Nous Voici!” On July 4th, 1917, Pershing led a parade of American doughboys through Paris which ended at La Fayette’s tomb. Once there, a senior staff officer with Pershing declared in French “La Fayette—We are Here!” In 1917 and 1918, U.S. soldiers arrived to repay the debt to La Fayette and to France.[1]   

Statue of La Fayette at Versailles
In the summer of 1914, European nations competed for prestige, influence, colonies, and economic supremacy.[2] The assassination of Archduke Ferdinand of the Austria-Hungary Empire in Sarajevo on June 28th sparked the war as it set off a chain-reaction of interlocking alliances and rivalries. Austria-Hungary declared war on Serbia on July 28th, and Russia mobilized in support of its ally. Germany declared war on Russia on August 1st and on France on August 3rd. Great Britain entered the war when Germany violated neutral Belgium on its way to attacking France. Quickly, the Triple Entente of France, Great Britain, and Russia had squared off against the Central Powers of Germany, Austria-Hungary, and the Ottoman Empire.[3]
Statue of Pershing at Versailles
Many thought this would be a short war. Men quickly reported to their military units so that by the end of August, the European armies had mobilized 15,000,000 soldiers.[4] By then, Germany had invaded France. Retreating before the advancing Germans, French and British forces finally blunted the attack with a victory at the Battle of the Marne. Both sides then raced west to try to outflank the other’s armies, only to run out of land at the Channel in mid-November. Then a four year war of attrition spread across the 400 mile front in northern France from the coast to Switzerland. The following are some of the attacks against the trenches that wasted so many lives on the Western Front.
In 1915, the Allies attacked at Artois in May and Champagne in September but failed to break through the German defenses. When their advance stalled on October 6th, an estimated 130,000 were dead. For that year, almost 500,000 French soldiers died.[5] Time and again, throughout the war, generals on all sides sent their troops over the top of the trenches into no man’s land where machine guns (firing up to 450 rounds per minute) and artillery mercilessly mowed them down.
1916 brought additional massacres. The Germans tried to break through at Verdun beginning in February and then for ten months attacks and counterattacks flung men against the entrenched positions. In the end, the Allies had halted the Germans but the French lost 162,000 men with over 200,000 wounded. The Germans had comparable casualties.[6]
On July 1st of that year, Allied forces tried to crack the German line at the Battle of the Somme. Carnage resulted as the combat dragged on. Causalities (killed, wounded, or missing) just for the month of December totaled 498,000 for the British, 440,000 for the French, and 414,000 for the Germans. As historian Yann Thomas notes: “…minimum ground had been gained against maximum losses.”[7] Such slaughter decimated a generation in Europe.
In 1917, the Eastern Front changed the war dramatically. Russia collapsed into revolution and withdrew from the Triple Entente. This freed up Germans troops to move to the trenches in France for a final push to capture Paris and win the war.
In anticipation of a new offensive against France, Germany targeted the alliance with the United States. The German Foreign Office sent the “Zimmermann Telegram” to Mexico proposing that if Mexico entered the war on the Central Powers side and attacked the U.S., it could regain Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. Germany also declared unrestricted submarine warfare in February to target the supplies coming from the U.S. Provoked by these actions, President Wilson (who had won reelection the previous fall on the slogan “He kept us out of war”) asked for and got the Senate to declare war against Germany on April 6th.
The U.S. had been engaged in combat before joining the Allies in Europe. On March 6th, 1916, General Pancho Villa and his army had attacked the New Mexican village of Columbus and killed seventeen people. In response, the U.S. Army invaded Mexico. Chasing Villa led to the first combat uses of trucks and airplanes by the Army. While U.S. troops never captured Villa, the combat experiences gained in Mexico proved useful for those officers and soldiers who headed to the increasingly mechanized war in Europe. In fact, the commander of the Villa pursuit, General Pershing, became the commander of the American Expeditionary Forces in Europe.
In all, 2,000,000 U.S. soldiers shipped to Europe with 1,200,000 going into combat. Equipping the American troops took a lot of items. They needed 5,000,000 overseas caps, 12,000,000 wool tunics, 22,000,000 wool shirts, 5,700,000 gas masks, 2,500,000 rifles, 1,960,000 bayonets, 2,710,000 steel helmets, 26,000,000 boots, and 10,700,000 canteens.[8] The European allies provided additional materiel, especially machine guns and cannons.
At the Aisne-Marne American Cemetery and Memorial, I luckily stumbled onto a talk that Superintendent James Burtelson was giving. He presented an overview of the action around Chateau-Thierry in the summer of 1918. The Germans, wanting to win the war before the U.S. troops arrived in force, launched a surprise attack on May 27th. Along a fifty mile front that stretched from Soissons in the west to Reims in the east, the Germans advanced fourteen miles, and by June 5th, they had entered the city of Chateau-Thierry on the north bank of the Marne River. If they crossed the Marne, Paris beckoned only fifty miles away.[9]
Map of German Salient summer 1918 from the Chateau-Thierry Monument.
The French commander, General Foch, desperately asked for troops from Pershing who rushed all the U.S. forces he could to stop the Germans. The 2nd Division, including the 4th Marine Brigade, replaced the worn out French units in early June. On June 6th, the Marines and the rest of the 2nd Division counterattacked in the Belleau Wood and engaged the Germans for twenty days. A trailside marker in the Wood described this as one of the most fiercely fought battles in U.S. Marine Corps history. As a tribute to the Marines’ ferocity, the Germans dubbed them the Teufelhunden-- Devil Dogs. In clearing out the Germans, the 2nd Division took 10,000 casualties with 1,800 dead.[10]
William A. French, one of the Devil Dogs, later wrote:
I had my trench knife in one hand and my rifle in the other, waiting to either be killed or captured…. We have not closed our eyes for two nights…. We had planned on sleeping for a few hours, but we could hear men in ‘No Man’s land’ calling for help. Finally each call became faint, and finally stopped—they had died.[11]
Fighting in dense woods, often at night and under artillery bombardments that included poison gas, Marines continued to push back against the Germans.

Trenches and an artillery crater at Belleau Wood, 100 years later.
              A German intelligence report from interrogated U.S. prisoners stated: “The various attacks by both of the Marine regiments were carried out with vigor and regardless of losses. The morale effect of our firearms did not materially check the advance of the infantry. The nerves of the Americans are still unshaken…. A characteristic of one of the prisoners is ‘we kill or get killed’.”[12] At Belleau Wood, the modern Marine Corps earned its stripes.
Stymied at the Wood, eight divisions of German soldiers tried to outflank the Americans east of Chateau-Thierry, but the 3rd Division repelled six successive assaults, earning the nickname, “Rock of the Marne.” In this action, the 3rd suffered 3,401 dead and 12,764 wounded. The Allies then went on the offensive and eliminated the German salient by August 6th. Ten American Divisions (310,000 men) participated in this offensive. The repulse of the Germans and the subsequent Allied offense along this front cost U.S. forces 67,000 casualties.[13]
Superintendent Burtelson then took us to a room where he showed us bullets and shrapnel that the ground keepers had recently collected in the forest. He passed around a two foot long piece of mangled shrapnel that weighed about fifteen pounds. If it hit a person, it would tear apart a body. Then he said that military divisions aren’t buried at the cemetery, that men are, and he took us to his office to talk about a couple of the men who died at Belleau Wood.
Holding up a copy of a death certificate, he said that he talks to the dead. He researches those who died by reading documents obtained from military records. He introduced us to John (Chick) Havden, who died in Belleau Wood but whose grave is unknown. Some 1,000 slain men were never recovered from this battle. Then he showed us a photo of Jim Dean, a fifteen year old who enlisted by lying about his age. We read a letter to Dean’s mother from someone who witnessed his death. Dean was second in line on a patrol winding their way through the dark woods around 2:30 am. They were wearing gas masks to protect themselves when a machine gun burst killed the first man in the line who was the bugler and then Dean. The letter assured his mother that he died instantly without suffering. Superintendent James said that most letters assured such a painless death although many men died in horrible ways.  
The Ainse-Marne American Cemetery, France.
As the Allied troops advanced toward Germany, the Germans called for peace. In a clearing surrounded by woods outside of Compiègne, the French, British, and Germans met in Foch’s railroad parlor car to end the war. At the Armistice Clearing, the belligerents signed a temporary halt to hostilities that took effect on the 11th minute of the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month in 1918. We now call it Veterans’ Day; however, the British call it Remembrance Day and the French Armistice Day. The railroad tracks that brought the opposing sides to the meeting, the statue of Foch that guards the clearing, and a railroad car similar to the one where the Armistice was signed still reside there.
              The Treaty of Versailles, signed in the Hall of Mirrors on June 28th, 1919, punished Germany, blaming it as the sole aggressor for the war. In truth many of the European countries were equally guilty. The treaty imposed excessively harsh war reparations on Germany and mandated its army be reduced to only 100,000 troops, with no tanks and airplanes. The German, Austria-Hungary, Russian, and Ottoman Empires all collapsed and even the overseas domains of Britain and France struggled in the economic devastations of the war. The map of the Middle East was redrawn by the victors which still impacts that region. 
Europe after the First World War. From World War II Museum at Caen, France.
              In the final reckoning, the harsh treaty that ended World War I begat World War II. Germans, reduced to poverty due to the war reparations and run-away inflation of the 1920s and 1930s, embraced a nationalist leader who railed against the punitive treaty and rose to power. We will return to the rise of Nazism in the chapter on the European theater in World War II.  
              In the U.S., President Wilson, hailed as a savior in Europe, returned from the peace negotiations to a hostile Senate which never ratified the Treaty of Versailles. His Fourteen Points, including self-determination for colonial people, an end to secret treaties, and the creation of the League of Nations, suffered first from unsympathetic Allies who wanted revenge against Germany, and then from recalcitrant U.S. senators from both parties who objected to parts of the treaty. In campaigning to gain public support for it, Wilson suffered a stroke and served his last year in the White House disabled and isolated.
The 1,200,000 U.S. soldiers who engaged in combat for 200 days held a quarter of the Western Front. Of these soldiers, 117,000 were killed in action with 139,000 wounded or missing. Nonetheless, their contributions are recognized at the Chateau-Thierry Monument: “With many German units exhausted and 9,000 new American soldiers pouring into France each day, the balance had tipped.”[14] The United States’ entry into World War I proved decisive in the Allied victory.
In justifying the graphic images by the artists and photographers who documented the war, art critic Adeline Adams said: “It must be told, the pictured story of our country’s past in the World War…. We are of a forward looking habit; we have such a wealth of tomorrows on our mind that we forget our yesterdays, their glory and bitter cost.”[15] Remembering the horrors of the war and the young lives lost continues to be vital. In fact, in almost every French village, town, and city, a memorial lists the names of the local men killed. For example, on plaques inside the Cathedral in Versailles, I counted over 500 names that died from that parish alone. Often the names of those who also died in World War II are attached to a memorial, a reminder of how World War I led to World War II.

World War I consumed not just Europe, but battles raged in Africa, the Middle East, and Asia. The human cost dwarfed previous wars with 9,500,000 military deaths, 21,000,000 wounded, and 4,000,000 prisoners or missing[16]. In this increasingly mechanized war, most casualties came from artillery, machine guns, and poison gas. For civilians, some 13,000,000 died from starvation, massacres, or as collateral damage. An influenza epidemic towards the end of the war killed an additional 20,000,000 and 50,000,000 people worldwide.[17] The Great War ushered in a new type of combat which destroyed millions of young lives as well as the old world order. The twentieth century never quite recovered from it.

The Pershing-La Fayette Monument was erected in 1937 by France which “symbolizes the mutual gratitude of the two nations for the help each gave to the other in their struggle for freedom.”[18] The Chateau-Thierry Monument was dedicated in 1929 to commemorate the American contribution to stopping Germany’s last offensive in the summer of 1918. The Aisne-Marne and the Oise-Marne American Cemeteries are managed by the American Battle Monument Commission which Pershing directed after World War I. The Armistice Clearing was constructed in the 1920s, and Arthur Henry Fleming, an American industrialist, financed the museum there which opened in 1927. Hitler used the clearing and the railroad car where the armistice was signed to stage the abdication of France in 1940. The Nazis destroyed the museum that year, which was reconstructed in 1950. The U.S. National World War I Museum in Kansas City was opened in 1926.
From the exhibit at the Chateau-Thierry Monument, France.
Armistice Clearing and Museum
60200 Compiègne, France
+33 3 44 85 14 18

Aisne-Marne American Cemetery
02400 Belleau, France
+33 3 23 70 70 90
Chateau-Thierry American Monument
This monument is managed by the Aisne-Marne Cemetery.

Oise-Aisne American Cemetery
02130 Seringes-et-Nesles, France
+33.(0)3.23.82.21.81

National World War I Museum and Memorial
2 Memorial Drive
Kansas City, Missouri  64108
(816) 888-8100



[1] Exhibit text at Chateau-Thierry American Monument, France.
[2] Exhibit text at Chateau-Thierry Monument.
[3] Exhibit text at the Armistice Memorial Museum, Compiègne, France.
[4] Exhibit text at the Armistice Museum.
[5] Yann Thomas, World War I: From Mobilization to the Armistice (Bayeux, France: OREP Editions, 2017), 11; exhibit text at Musée de l’Armée—Invalides, Paris.
[6] Thomas, World War I, 15.
[7] Thomas, World War I, 16.
[8] Exhibit text at the National World War I Museum and Memorial, Kansas City, Missouri.
[9] Exhibit text at Chateau-Thierry Monument.
[10] Exhibit text at Chateau-Thierry Monument.
[11] Exhibit text at Chateau-Thierry Monument.
[12] Report from the German IV Reserve Corps intelligence officer, accessed at Aisne-Marne Cemetery, France.
[13] Conversation with James Burtelson, superintendent at Aisne-Marne Cemetery; exhibit texts at the Chateau-Thierry Monument and the 3rd Division Memorial in Chateau-Thierry; American Battle Monuments Commission brochure for Aisne-Marne American Cemetery and Memorial.
[14] Exhibit text at Chateau-Thierry Monument.
[15] Exhibit text at Chateau-Thierry Memorial.
[16] Exhibit text at Musée de l’Armées—Invalides, Paris.
[18] Exhibit text at the Pershing La Fayette Monument, Versailles, France.

Sunday, November 11, 2018

The End of World War I

The Aisne-Marne American Cemetery.
Today is the 100th anniversary of the end of World War I. On the 11th minute of the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month in 1918, the Great War came to an end. Some now call it the Armistice Day, others the Remembrance Day, and others still Veterans' Day. Whatever you call it, the end of this most horrific war in human history to date had killed 10,000,000 young men and wounded an additional 6,000,000. Millions more civilians got caught in the fighting or died from starvation. Many of those who survived had lost their youth and dreams.

Earlier this month, I was privileged to visit some of the cemeteries, battlefields, and memorials to the American forces who fought in France. Since our president canceled his trip yesterday to one of the places I visited, I offer here some photos to show what he missed in his apparent disrespect to those fallen in battle.

Some of the 2,288 graves at the cemetery.
Inside the chapel at the cemetery are the names of the 1,060 of those men who died here but whose bodies were never found.

Above the cemetery, the Belleau Wood battlefield was where the 5th Marines rushed in to the stop the German advance on Paris in the summer of 1918. Over a month of fierce combat amidst relentless artillery and gas attacks, U.S. forces halted the German breakout and turned the tide of the war. 

German artillery captured in Belleau Wood.


After 100 years, the scarred landscape of the forest still show a bomb crater in the foreground and a hastily dug trench on the upper left.

The path through the woods skirts a trench dug in the summer of 1918.

Next week, I will post some more photos of my visits to the cemeteries and memorials to the U.S. participation in World War I.


Monday, December 19, 2016

Hanging up the keys and sitting down at the computer

For those of you expecting a new blog, here is a reprint from the end of last week's.

This is my last blog. I have decided that I now need to shift my writing and focus to a book about the history of the U.S. from those places that I visited where history actually happened. I can’t continue this weekly blog and also write the book. I have enjoyed writing for you and am a bit saddened that I have to pull the plug, but I can’t devote the time needed to the blog. I want to thank you for reading and following me and also thank those Parkgonauts and community history scholars that I met along the way. This has been a great way to spend seven months, visiting over 100 NPS and historical sites and driving 20,000 miles. If you still want to read my take on the NPS and historical sites, you can always revisit my earlier blogs.


I am still driven by history, it’s just that now I will drive my desk, researching and writing and making sense of my journey and our country’s past and present. Stay tuned—this is not the end of Driven by History. It is just the end of the road trip. The fun's over, now comes the real work—the book.

Monday, December 12, 2016

Goodbye to the Centenary of the National Park Service

As the year comes to a close on the Centenary of the NPS, so will my travels to our National Parks. The new year beckons with a new goal—turning this sabbatical of travel and blogging into a book. But first, here’s the last entry of “Notes from the Road.”
Aztec National Monument's central plaza (Photo by Hunner)

Last Monday, I left Durango and headed south to warmer climes. I visited Aztec National Monument, one of the places where people gathered after they left Chaco in the 12th century. A reconstructed kiva, the only such one in the National Parks, offered a great place to imagine dancers and drummers, priests and supplicants holding religious ceremonies. There, the walls echoed with a recording of such singing and drumming. Crouching through low doorways and walking around the ruins, I marveled at the window Aztec offered into the world of the Ancestral Puebloans. In the documentary film about Aztec at the visitors’ center, one of the Native American narrators commented about the transitory nature of the place. She said that her people have always been a migrating culture and that her ancestors left this and the other places that I have visited the previous week because it was time to move on. For me, this rings truer than drought, warfare, or other reasons offered by archeologists. Leaving Aztec NM, I drove through Farmington, Shiprock, and Gallup and hopped onto Interstate 40 to get to Grants at the base of the sacred mountain of Mt. Taylor.
Interior of the reconstructed kiva at Aztec (Photo by Hunner)
Grants has seen better days, evidenced by its closed restaurants and boarded-up stores. Perhaps it never recovered from the uranium mining boom of the 1950s and 60s with the consequential environmental and health challenges. I left Grants the next morning on my way to finally go to Sky City at the Pueblo of Acoma. I first stopped by El Malpais NHP just south of Grants where Ranger Dalton informed me that the Sky City is operating winter hours and is only open on weekends. So much for my advanced planning. So I quickly reorganized and headed for El Morro where over the centuries, people have carved names and symbols into the soft stone cliffs. From Native American petroglyphs to Don de Oñate’s “Paso por Acqui” (I passed by here) in the early 1600s to railroad surveying crews in the 1850s, El Morro has documented the many people who used the pond at the base of the cliffs for water in an arid land.
The cliffs of El Morro National Monument (Photo by Hunner)
The pond at the base of El Morro that has attracted travelers for centuries (Photo by Hunner)


Don Onate's signature at El Morro  (Photo by Hunner)
After marveling at this isolated outpost of the NPS and talking to volunteer Rob, I swung through the Pueblo of Zuni for a fill-up and turned south for Pie Town and U.S. 60. A quick coffee and some apple pie at Pie Town prepped me for a visit to the Very Large Array on the Plains of St. Augustine. Some might recall Jodie Foster in the opening scenes of the movie “Contact” in front of the large satellite dishes peering into space which was filmed at the VLA. At the site, scientists from around the world converge to listen to the full range of radio waves that emanate from stars, galaxies, and planets. Their research has changed our understanding of the universe. It was a great juxtaposition of the 21st century with the 12th century of Chaco and the other pre-contact Native American sites I had just visited.
The dish at the Very Large Array. Notice the line of the dishes that recede in the background (Photo by Hunner)
An example of the images of radio waves recorded by the VLA (From exhibit at the Visitors' Center)


I continued that Tuesday by stopping at the Bosque de Apache Wildlife Refuge south of Socorro, New Mexico. Here tens of thousands of Sandhill Cranes, Canadian Snow Geese, and various ducks winter.  At dusk, the cranes glide into a pond by the side of the road to spend the night protected by water from the predatory coyotes. As they flew overhead honking and softly landing in the ponds, avid birders with cameras the size of bazookas rapidly shot photos with the sunset in the background. I often stop by this time of year for some rejuvenation of the generosity and beauty of nature. I ended the day with a soak at Rivers Bend Hot Springs in Truth or Consequences on the banks of the Rio Grande.
Sandhill cranes settling in for the night at the Bosque. (Photo by Hunner)
Birders at the Bosque (Photo by Hunner)
So here’s the deal. This is my last blog. I have decided that I now need to shift my writing and focus to a book about the history of the U.S. from those places that I visited where history actually happened. I can’t continue this weekly blog and also write the book. I have enjoyed writing for you and am a bit saddened that I have to pull the plug, but I can’t devote the time needed to the blog. I want to thank you for reading and following me and also thank those Parkgonauts and community history scholars that I met along the way. This has been a great way to spend seven months, visiting over 100 NPS and historical sites and driving 20,000 miles. If you still want to read my take on the NPS and historical sites, you can always revisit my earlier blogs.


I am still driven by history, it’s just that now I will drive my desk, researching and writing and trying to make sense of my journey and our country’s past and present. Stay tuned—this is not the end of Driven by History. It is just the end of the road trip. Now comes the real work—the book.
Sunset at the Bosque de Apache (Photo by Hunner)